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James Hemings
Born c. 1765
Died 1801 (aged 35–36)
Occupation Chef de cuisine, cook
Years active 1784−1801
Parent(s) Betty Hemings
John Wayles
Relatives Hemings family
James Hemings
Portrait of James Hemings, Thomas Jefferson’s slave and Paris-trained chef de cuisine credited with refining the macaroni and cheese recipe and bringing it to the United States.

James Hemings (born around 1765 and passed away in 1801) was a groundbreaking American chef. He was the first American to receive formal culinary training in France. Born in Virginia in 1765, James lived under a system where he was not free.

At about eight years old, he came under the ownership of Thomas Jefferson at his home, Monticello. James was an older brother to Sally Hemings and a half-sibling to Jefferson's wife, Martha Jefferson. Martha, Sally, and James all shared John Wayles as their father.

As a young man, Jefferson chose Hemings to travel with him to Paris. Jefferson was appointed Minister to France at the time. In Paris, James Hemings trained to become a French chef. He also took lessons on his own to learn the French language.

Hemings is celebrated for introducing many French cooking styles to the early United States. He also created new recipes inspired by French cuisine. This included dishes like crème brûlée and meringues. Most famously, James Hemings is credited with bringing macaroni and cheese to America.

Hemings returned to the United States with Jefferson. He likely wanted to be near his large Hemings family at Monticello. Jefferson continued to pay Hemings wages for his work as a chef in Philadelphia. James Hemings later negotiated with Jefferson for his freedom. He became a free man in 1796 after training his brother Peter for three years to take over his role as chef. James Hemings passed away at age 36.

A Chef's Journey to France

Early Life and Family Connections

James Hemings was born in 1765. His mother, Betty Hemings, was of mixed heritage. James was one of ten children Betty had. Six of these children, including James, had John Wayles as their father.

When Wayles passed away in 1773, James and his family came under the care of Wayles's daughter, Martha Jefferson, and her husband, Thomas Jefferson. This meant James and his family were then part of Jefferson's household.

Learning French Cuisine

In 1784, Thomas Jefferson traveled to Paris as a representative to the French court. He took James Hemings, then 19 years old, with him. Jefferson wanted James to be trained as a chef.

While in France, Jefferson paid Hemings a monthly wage for his work. For the first three years, James studied cooking. He learned from pastry chefs and other cooking experts, including a prince's chef. He also used his own wages to pay a French tutor to learn the language.

James Hemings eventually became the chef de cuisine (head chef) in Jefferson's kitchen in Paris. He prepared his delicious creations for important European guests. These guests included aristocrats, writers, and scientists whom Jefferson invited to dinner.

Bringing French Flavors to America

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Snow Eggs, a French dessert introduced by Hemings to the United States

Famous Dishes and Culinary Skills

During his time in France, James Hemings learned how to make pasta and cheese dishes. He created a dish called "macaroni pie." This dish later became what Americans know as macaroni and cheese today. James is thought to be one of the first American chefs to prepare this dish in such a way.

Another French dish James introduced to American cooking was Snow Eggs. This dessert is made with meringue and custard.

Jefferson knew that France had ended slavery in 1789. This meant that Hemings, while in France, had the chance to seek his freedom. James used his own wages to learn French. Historical accounts suggest that James and his sister Sally, who was also in France, thought about staying in France to live as free people. However, in 1789, both James and Sally Hemings returned to the United States with Jefferson.

A Path to Freedom

After returning to America, James continued to work as Jefferson's chef. He received wages for his work. They first went back to Monticello. Later, they lived briefly in New York City, where James Hemings managed the kitchen.

James Hemings also cooked for one of the most important dinners in early American history. On June 20, 1790, at a dinner prepared by Hemings, Alexander Hamilton and Jefferson settled their political disagreements. At this dinner, Hamilton agreed to establish Washington, D.C. as the permanent capital. In return, James Madison agreed that the federal government would take on the debts of the states.

In 1791, James Hemings and Jefferson were living in Philadelphia, which was then the capital. James traveled with Jefferson and James Madison on a month-long trip through the Northeast. They visited places like New York and Vermont. Jefferson often trusted Hemings to travel ahead to arrange places for them to stay.

Since Pennsylvania had laws against slavery, Jefferson paid Hemings a wage while he worked there. After two years in Philadelphia, Jefferson planned to return to Virginia, a state where slavery was legal. James Hemings did not want to return to a state where he would not be free. He negotiated an agreement with Jefferson. He would become a free man after training a new chef at Monticello to take his place.

In their 1793 agreement, Jefferson wrote:

Having been at great expence in having James Hemings taught the art of cookery, desiring to befriend him, and to require from him as little in return as possible, I hereby do promise & declare, that if the said James should go with me to Monticello in the course of the ensuing winter, when I go to reside there myself, and shall there continue until he shall have taught such person as I shall place under him for that purpose to be a good cook, this previous condition being performed, he shall thereupon be made free ...

For two years, Hemings trained his younger brother Peter, who was also not free from birth, to be the chef at Monticello. James Hemings finally became a free man in 1796. He could speak French and English and was able to read and write. The Library of Congress still has his handwritten list of kitchen supplies from before he left Monticello. He also left behind recipes and other writings.

Life as a Free Man

Working Independently

After gaining his freedom, James Hemings traveled to Europe. He eventually returned to the United States and found work as a cook in Philadelphia.

Not much is known about James Hemings's personal life after he became free. He never married and did not have children. One of the few things directly from James that we still have today is a handwritten list of kitchen utensils.

In 1801, Jefferson offered Hemings a job at the White House. Hemings politely declined, saying he could not leave his current job in Baltimore right away. When Jefferson asked a second time, Hemings replied through a friend, Francis Sayes. Sayes reported: "I have spoke to James according to your Desire he has made mention again as he did before that he was willing to serve you before any other man in the Union but sence he understands that he would have to be among strange servants he would be very much obliged to you if you would send him a few lines of engagement and on what conditions and what wages you would please to give him with your own hand wreiting." Jefferson decided not to press him further.

Hemings later returned to Monticello for a short time. He worked in the kitchen for about a month and a half, earning thirty dollars, before leaving again. Later, while working as a cook in a tavern in Baltimore, James Hemings passed away at age 36.

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